Today, a high naturality profile has become a must-have presenting new challenges for formulators regarding performance and sensoriality. Indeed, although a few solutions exist in the market, it is difficult to achieve high viscosity with natural ingredients and with a good sensory profile. Natural gums are usually with low thickening properties, which means that formulators have to find ways of boosting viscosity at the expense of sensoriality.

In this context, Seppic has developed a highly thickening & moisturizing natural gum, suitable for a wide range of galenics and textures, such as gels or emulsions, without neglecting sensoriality.

Solagum™ GM is an eco-designed, 100% natural origin gum with high thickening & moisturizing properties for maximum comfort.

IDENTITY CARD

• INCI Name: Glucomannan
• Appearance: non-ionic white powder
• Recommended use level: up to 3%
• pH range: 4 - 10 in aqueous gel / from 3.5 in emulsion
• Preservative: none
• Microbiology: ≤100 CFU/g (Total aerobic germs, yeast & molds)
• Microbiota friendly
• Applications: skin care / hair care / hygiene / sun care / makeup
• Labels: China compliant, Cosmos approved, Halal certified, Vegan Suitable
• 100% Natural origin according to IS0 16128 standard
• Non-GMO / Non-GMM
• Readily biodegradable according to OECD 301B
• Cold processable
• Non-microplastic according to the Restriction of synthetic polymer microparticles proposal published by the European Commission on 25 October 2023

FROM A UNIQUE GLUCOMANNAN

Solagum™ GM is a unique glucomannan, purified from the tubers of Amorphophallus Muelleri, a tropical plant from Thailand, which is NOT listed as a forbidden plant in China according to STSC (Safety and Technical Standard for Cosmetics 2015).

Eco-designed, this Cosmos approved natural gum is from a 100% physical process with bio-sourced solvents:

KEY PROPERTIES IN FORMULATION

• Thickening performance in aqueous gel and natural emulsion

In AQUEOUS GEL, 1% of Solagum™ GM offers a viscosity between 35,000 to 45,000 mPa.s, making it one of the most thickening natural gums on the market!

Compared to Xanthan Gum, Solagum™ GM at 1% meets the challenge of being able to thicken natural formulas with smooth textures 10 times more effectively without a sticky or stringy effect.

In NATURAL EMULSION, Solagum™ GM alone thickens easily achieving cream texture. In addition, it provides better stability over time than the benchmark.

• Resistance to electrolytes

Thanks to its non-ionic structure, Solagum™ GM is totally resistant to electrolytes, providing a chassis effect.

• Sensory profile in aqueous gel and in emulsion

In AQUEOUS GEL, Solagum™ GM provides:

• a feeling of supreme comfort to the skin thanks to its cushiony effect

• easy spreading

• non-stringy texture

• non-sticky afterfeel

• At 0.7%, Solagum GM is perceived as having significantly no balling effect.

In EMULSION, 1% of Solagum™ GM provides:

• a rebound texture

• a nice pick-up

• a rich skin feel

• a significant non-stringy effect

MULTIFUNCTIONALITY

Solagum™ GM is not only a natural excipient, but also has some skin properties, making it the perfect solution for minimalist formulas thanks to its multifunctionality!

• Moisturizing effect

Glucomannan comes from the Amorphophallus muelleri plant, which has very strong hygroscopic, viscous and gelling properties. Thanks to this property, Solagum™ GM captures and stores water to provide hydration to the skin. Like a sponge (which swells and fills with water)!

Good to know: Its very strong hygroscopic mode of action can be compared to that of hyaluronic acid, considered a 'Hero Ingredient' in cosmetics.

Regardless of galenics (AQUEOUS GEL, EMULSION), Solagum™ GM from 0.5% provides:

• a significant and long-lasting moisturizing effect up to 24h (vs. non-treated zone & vs. placebo emulsion)

• +50% confirmed hydration after 1h and up to 10% hydration after 24h (vs. non-treated zone)

• Tightening effect

1% of Solagum™ GM offers a significant and immediate tightening effect on the skin, comparable to a positive control (Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate).

SYNERGISTIC EFFECT WITH NATURAL GUMS AND SYNTHETIC POLYMERS

The combination of SOLAGUM™ GM & SOLAGUM ™ AX provides a viscosity boost up to 2 times thicker! The best ratio is 0,1/0,9 of Solagum™ AX / Solagum™ GM in aqueous gel and emulsion, with a smoother aspect than the synergy with Xanthan Gum.

HOW TO FORMULATE

Solagum™ GM is easy to use and very quick to hydrate!

In AQUEOUS GEL, you can add Solagum™ GM into water at hot or cold process by making a vortex.

In EMULSION, Solagum™ GM can be added:

• into the hot melted oily phase

• into the hot aqueous phase

• into the emulsion during emulsification

• cold into the final emulsion (for viscosity adjustment)

TO SUM UP

Solagum™ GM is a 100% natural origin gum derived from Glucomannan, extracted from the tubers of Amorphophallus Muelleri, a tropical plant authorized in China. It provides extra thickening and moisturizing properties, with a pleasant, cushioning and comfortable skin feel. Eco-designed and cold processable, Solagum™ GM is suitable for a wide range of galenics and textures, from gels to emulsions, in every field of application.